“our Perigrination westward”
Travel diaries and journals hold a particular fascination for me. I marvel at the amazing bravery, almost audacity, of people who undertake difficult journeys into unfamiliar territory, enduring the vagaries of the weather and the uncertainty of procuring lodging for the night and yet finding time to record the beauties of nature and comment on the people they meet along the way.
Sally Anderson Hastings did not make a very long journey: from Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, to Washington County in the same state, a distance of some 250 miles. Her party included her brother and his wife, her sister Rebecca, her husband, and their children, and perhaps a servant or slave. Rebecca was in “a declining state of health.” They left on October 7, 1800, and arrived at their destination in Cross Creek Township, where her sister’s husband had purchased a farm, on October 31. Sally had originally intended her remarks on “our Perigrination westward” for her mother but later was prevailed upon to have them published. She not only gives details of the journey she also philosophizes a good deal, periodically inserting poems of her own making. My interest in her observations has been further piqued by the fact that my brother lives in that neck of the woods. Following the party’s progress, here are several entries that strike me as interesting for one reason or another. They are spread over three posts.
Oct. 7. Our mode of traveling is in a Wagon; a kind of Conveyance entirely new to us all. . . .
October 8. This morning we crossed the Susquehanna; and such is my fear of venturing into a Ferry-boat, that it required a full quarter of an hour’s Reasoning to convince me [to board].
Cumberland county. . . . a fine champaign Country; in the highest state of cultivation; here and there interspersed with decent Farm-houses; while the adjacent Lands appear in all the pride of Autumnal Glory. . . . the prospect is grand, and bounded by the bending skies, or terminated by the interference of surrounding mountains; which rise like smoky columns, and lose their azure summit amidst the fleeting clouds. . . .
October 9. Last night we enjoyed the Blessings of a comfortable Supper, excellent Lodging, and a calm refreshing Sleep. . . . Carlisle, this Town is beautifully situated, and seems very populous. . . . I would here remark, Madam, that it is one of the Misfortunes of Travellers, that their Situation excludes them, in a great measure, from the Society of those who are generally styled “the better;” and consequently, their Observations are, for the most part, confined to the Populace. . . .
October 10. Last night . . . I had the Happiness to be introduced to a person of Intelligence and Respectability. . . . His agreeable Conversaton served as a Talisman, both to restore my spirits. and reduce my temper. . . .
You, Madam, whom I believe to be so Adept in the science of Physiognomy, will scarce credit the Influence which a Countenance possess over a whimsical Being like myself; who consider the Face as a Title-page, and every variation of the Features, an Index, to the human Heart.
Our Landlord was one of those inoffensive Creatures, whose Character I shall give you a sketch of, in the following lines:
They eat, they sleep, the walk about;
Go here and there, and in and out;
Not neither think, contrive, nor do,
Things good, or bad, or old, or new.
Not wise of speech, of heart, or head;
Nor quite a Fool, alive, nor dead;
Who purpose just to live and die;
But care not how, nor when, nor why.
October 11. Seated in a neat little Breakfast-parlor, in the pleasant Village of Strasburg, I am amusing myself, by observing the military Evolutions of a Brigade of well-disciplined Soldiers. This appears to me, an Exercise better calculated to display the manly graces of a finely-proportioned Figure, than the most approved Country-dance I ever saw. In its nature, it seems to combine so much of the Elegant and Useful, that I presume there are few Amusements, in which a Gentleman can engage, that offer him so
fair an Opportunity of complimenting his Understanding.
Here we are presented with a striking Contrast. On one hand lies a fine level Country, smooth as the unruffled face of Heaven, in all the pride of luxurious Vegetation. On the other, clad in awful sublimity and majestic grandeur, rise the stupendous Mountains; which heave their forest-crowned summits to the clouds. . . .
To ascend these Mountains on foot (and not one of us will ride over them) is a task truly arduous. To descend them, is by no means less difficult; as they are so exceedingly stony, that one can scarce get stable footing, for one yard in a place. We are all fatigued, especially the Children; and my Sister is almost exhausted. To travel through this Region, Madam, demands the exercise of Fortitude; and those who are Strangers to this Virtue, will here learn how to appreciate its value.
Sally Hastings certainly possesses a fair share of fortitude. Journey on with her in the next post.




