Reaching Huntingdon County and planning to breakfast on the summit of a nearby mountain, Sally Hastings (see previous post) follows a winding path and gets lost—”entangled in a Thicket, on the brow of a frightful Precipice.” After ineffectual attempts to find the way back she seats herself on the ground and “in social converse with the heart” composes a poem! She comments further:
Here the soul is uncommonly alive. Perhaps these are the Scenes for exalted Meditation; or the favorite haunts of the Muses: Or, it may be, as we approach nearer to the celestial Regions, the native element of Spirits, ours become more alert and invigorated; or, perhaps, surrounded as we are with sublime Objects, and those operating on the Senses, they communicate the most exalted Ideas to the Mind; which, exerting all its powers in the Contemplation of awful Nature, expands, until—bursting the Shackles which confine it to Earth, and affecting its native Prerogative and Independence—it rises, in a kind of enthusiastic Ardor, and contemplates the Perfections of Nature’s God!
October 13. It has rained all day; we have progressed only five miles; and lodge, to-night, west of Fort Littleton. Here is a large and very jolly Company; which had, prior to our arrival, engaged every Bed and Bedchamber in the House. We are reduced to the disagreeable Necessity of sleeping on Chairs, Benches, or any other way we please; surrounded, at the same time, with a group of Demi-politicians, antiquarian Story-tellers, and quibbling Humorists, who court Popularity by ever melting measure of sober Dullness. . . .
October 15. Bedford county. Yesterday we crossed Sidling-hill, and lodged at the foot of Ray’s Hill. These are only distinguished from Mountains, by the Name. . . . The day had rained, and the night was severely cold. . . .
The Roads are very bad; and the Juniata [River] twines itself into so many Circumvolutions, that it rolls alternately on the right and left sides of the Road. The lofty Pines form a gloomy shade, and almost exclude the rays of the Sun. You may free yourself of all Apprehension, Madam, of my Pen taking an undue License here. You may take my word for it, that to exaggerate, in describing the terrific Wildness of this Country, would require the efforts of a Genius infinitely superior to mine.
October 17. This is a rainy day, and the Roads are very bad. We travel slowly. . . . We are all much fatigued; and, the Team being overloaded, I am obliged to walk. . . .
October 20. The Rains having swelled the Waters to an alarming degree, we were obliged to tarry at the Seat of a Gentleman . . . for the space of two days. . . . To-day we crossed the Allegany Mountains, which is not rocky and barren, like the others. There are Farms on the top, and the Land is rich. The ascent is so gradual, that Persons do not suspect the height they are elevated above the common surface of the Earth, until, almost at the summit, by a sudden turn in the Road, the Abyss below appears while the lofty summit of the Allegany towers majestically through the opening Clouds, and looks down on the rest of Creation, as sovereign Mistress of our Northern World. . . .
October 21. Somerset county. Last night we slept on the top of the Allegany Mountain. . . . we continued our route through the Mountains; and arrived in safety at Stoneycreek. Here we have alighted; seated ourselves on a large Stone; and are attentively engaged in a Debate, on the height of the surrounding Pine-trees; which is really surprising. In vain do the rays of the Sun exert their Influence to penetrate their bushy tops. The Turpentine, mingling its Perfume with that of the Shrubs and spicy Underwood,
fills all the Air with Fragrance. This, with the murmuring of the Water, the clank of the Mill, and the sighing of the Breeze among the Pines, conspire to render Stoneycreek the most melancholy, romantic spot I ever saw.
To-night we sleep at a private House; the Owner of which has blessed the Community with fifteen Sons, and one Daughter. I presume it is uncertain how many more such Tokens of Regard he may bestow on his Country; for, both his Wife and Daughter, a few days ago, have each added one to the number. . . .
October 23. Yesterday we crossed the Laurel-hill; which is very steep, and so rocky that no one would venture to ride over it. The rain and snow began to fall in great abundance; which, freezing, formed a crust on the rocks, and rendered them so slippery, that the utmost Caution was insufficient to prevent our receiving some severe Falls. The Cold was intense; Night came on, with pitchy darkness; and my Sister, unaccustomed to Difficulty, and totally exhausted with Fatigue, was obliged to sit down with her Children on a rock, where she wept. . . . Our Situation admitted of no other alternative, than perish on the Hill, or make our way over it on foot; for our Wagon was far before. . . . Considering our Situation, the Condition of the Mountain, the darkness of the night, and the inclemency of the weather, it is a Miracle to me, that we all arrived safe at the base of the Laurel-hill.
I have sometimes thought, that the human Breast resembles a public Inn, and is a receptacle for every way-faring Guest; where it often happens, that, when one has made his exit, another arrives, of quite an opposite Character: Yet, the respectful Proprietor of the hospitable House accommodates himself, with amazing facility, to the humor of each! Last night I had an opportunity of seeing the propriety of this Comparison: For, though our Feelings were of the most uncomfortable kind, having made our way over the Laurel-hill with a Difficulty and Perseverance that would, in Hannibal’s days, have entitled our Names to Immortality; yet, as soon as we arrived at its base, and discovered a House illuminated by cheering Fires, we were the happiest Group West of the Allegany Mountains.
Ligonier is a very rich Valley, and thickly inhabited. Most of the Houses are tolerably good; but such of the Inhabitants, as came within the circle of my Observation, were rather more distinguished by their Curiosity, than by Urbanity or Hospitality. . . . The storm renders it impossible for us to cross the Chestnut Ridge; and our Landlady, it seems, has conceived an Antipathy to ‘Flitters’ [people who move a lot]. . . . The Landlord, who had been all day absent, on his return, seemed determined to compensate for his Lady’s Inattention, by devoting all his time and talents to our Amusement. But it unfortunately happened, that, among the number of his Pastimes, whistling was the most conspicuous; and he filled every pause in his Conversations with a gust of that irritating Music, to the great annoyance of my sensitive Nerves.
Read on in the next post. Sally Hastings finally reaches the end of her journey.
Read Sally Hastings diary online HERE.